Service available now · 50 states Mon–Sun, 7am–9pm

Kenmore Dryer Error Codes
Lookup & Diagnostics

All known error codes for Kenmore dryers — what each code means, self-check steps, and when to call an experienced technician.

178 Error codes
93 Service areas
91 Models covered

Schedule Kenmore
appliance repair

Experienced technicians in all 50 US states. Average response within 24 hours.

  • Experienced Kenmore specialists
  • Genuine OEM parts
  • 30-day labor warranty
  • Upfront pricing

Kenmore dryer error codes.

Burner Clicks Without Lighting
A gas cooktop burner that clicks repeatedly but never ignites.
Cooktop →
Control Unresponsive
A Kenmore cooktop whose touch controls or knobs do not respond to input.
Cooktop →
Cracked Glass Top
A visible crack, chip, or fracture in a Kenmore glass/ceramic cooktop surface.
Cooktop →
Element / Burner Won't Heat
A single electric cooktop element that will not heat while the others work normally.
Cooktop →
Element Stuck on High
An electric cooktop element that stays at full heat regardless of the knob or touch setting.
Cooktop →
Induction Not Detecting Cookware
A Kenmore induction cooktop that will not recognize a pan is present, or shows a cookware error.
Cooktop →
Buttons / Panel Unresponsive
A Kenmore dishwasher whose buttons or touch controls do not respond to input.
Dishwasher →
F1E1
F1E1 is a typical stuck-relay pattern reported on the electronic control board of Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwashers.
Dishwasher →
F1E2
F1E2 is a typical corrupted/incompatible control-board memory pattern reported on Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwashers.
Dishwasher →
F2
F2 means a water leak was detected on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwasher.
Dishwasher →
F2E2
F2E2 means a main control communication error on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwasher.
Dishwasher →
F3E1
F3E1 is a typical thermistor/water-temperature-sensor failure pattern reported on Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwashers.
Dishwasher →
F6E1
F6E1 means a user-interface error, main control, on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwasher.
Dishwasher →
F6E2
F6E2 means the water inlet valve windings are open on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwasher.
Dishwasher →
F6E3
F6E3 is a SUDS alarm caused by excessive suds in the drain system on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwasher.
Dishwasher →
F6E4
F6E4 means the float switch is open, often an overfill condition tied to incorrect leveling, on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwasher.
Dishwasher →
F8E1
F8E1 is a typical slow-drain pattern reported on Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwashers.
Dishwasher →
F8E2
F8E2 is a typical drain-pump electrical problem reported on Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwashers.
Dishwasher →
F9E1
F9E1 means a long-drain condition on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwasher.
Dishwasher →
Foul Odor
A musty, rotten, or sour smell coming from a Kenmore dishwasher.
Dishwasher →
Leaking from Door
Water leaking out from around the door of a Kenmore dishwasher during a cycle.
Dishwasher →
Not Cleaning Dishes Well
A Kenmore dishwasher that runs a full cycle but leaves food residue, spots, or film on dishes.
Dishwasher →
Not Draining
A Kenmore dishwasher that leaves standing water in the bottom of the tub at the end of a cycle.
Dishwasher →
Not Drying
A Kenmore dishwasher that cleans dishes but leaves them wet at the end of the cycle.
Dishwasher →
Not Filling
A Kenmore dishwasher that runs its cycle motions but little or no water enters the tub.
Dishwasher →
Stops Mid-Cycle
A Kenmore dishwasher that begins a cycle normally but halts before it finishes.
Dishwasher →
Won't Start
A Kenmore dishwasher that has power but does nothing when a cycle is selected and Start is pressed.
Dishwasher →
AF
AF, also shown as "Check Vent," means restricted airflow on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
d90/d95
d90 or d95 means the exhaust vent is 90% or 95% blocked on your LG-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
dE/AE
dE or AE means the dryer door is not fully closed on your LG-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
E13
E13 means the drain hose is kinked or clogged on your LG-built Kenmore condensing (ventless) dryer.
Dryer →
E21
E21 means a drain pump error on your LG-built Kenmore condensing (ventless) dryer.
Dryer →
EHE/ELE
EHE or ELE means high temperature or humidity was detected in the drum on your LG-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
F0
F0 means the lint filter is not inserted properly on your LG-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
F1/F01
F1 or F01 means an internal short in the main control relay or a control-board failure on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
F22
F22 means the outlet thermistor resistance is reading very high or open on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
F23
F23 means the outlet thermistor resistance is reading very low or shorted on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
F24
F24 means the inlet thermistor resistance is reading very high or open on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
F28
F28 means the moisture sensor resistance is reading very high or open on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
F29
F29 means the moisture sensor resistance is reading very low or shorted on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
HS
HS means a humidity sensor error on your LG-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
L2
L2 means the power supply voltage is reading too low on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
Loud Noise / Squealing
A Kenmore dryer making a squealing, grinding, or thumping noise during operation.
Dryer →
No Power
A Kenmore dryer that is completely dead — no lights, no display, no response at all.
Dryer →
Not Heating
A Kenmore dryer that tumbles normally but produces little or no heat.
Dryer →
Not Tumbling
A Kenmore dryer that runs but the drum will not turn.
Dryer →
nP
nP means no current is detected at the heater on your LG-built Kenmore dryer — an electrical wiring problem.
Dryer →
Overheating / Too Hot
A Kenmore dryer that runs hotter than normal, or clothes/the cabinet feel excessively hot to the touch.
Dryer →
PF
PF means power was interrupted mid-cycle on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
PS
PS means improper voltage in the power cord — such as reversed white/red wires — on your LG-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
Shuts Off Too Soon
A Kenmore dryer that stops running well before clothes are actually dry.
Dryer →
Takes Multiple Cycles to Dry
A Kenmore dryer that needs two or more cycles to fully dry a normal-sized load.
Dryer →
tE
tE means a thermistor failure was detected on your LG-built Kenmore dryer.
Dryer →
Won't Start
A Kenmore dryer that shows power but does nothing when Start is pressed.
Dryer →
Frost Buildup
Heavy frost or ice forming on the interior walls of a Kenmore freezer.
Freezer →
Leaking Water
Water pooling under or around a standalone Kenmore freezer, or inside on the floor of the compartment.
Freezer →
Not Freezing
A standalone Kenmore freezer that runs but never brings food down to a solid freeze.
Freezer →
Running Constantly
A Kenmore freezer compressor that never seems to cycle off.
Freezer →
Too Warm
A Kenmore freezer that runs but will not get cold enough to keep food solidly frozen.
Freezer →
Unusual Noise
A Kenmore freezer making a new humming, buzzing, clicking, or rattling sound.
Freezer →
Dispenser Jammed
A Kenmore ice dispenser that is physically stuck or grinding rather than simply not activating.
Ice Maker →
Hollow, Small, or Cloudy Cubes
A Kenmore ice maker producing cubes that are hollow, undersized, or cloudy/white instead of clear.
Ice Maker →
Leaking Water
Water pooling around, under, or inside a Kenmore ice maker or the freezer compartment housing it.
Ice Maker →
Not Dispensing
A Kenmore ice maker with ice in the bin but nothing comes out when the dispenser is pressed.
Ice Maker →
Not Making Ice
A Kenmore ice maker that has stopped producing ice entirely.
Ice Maker →
Slow / Low Ice Production
A Kenmore ice maker that still makes ice, but far less than it used to.
Ice Maker →
Water Dispenser Not Working
The water dispenser on a Kenmore refrigerator/ice-maker producing little or no water.
Ice Maker →
Bad Line
"Bad Line" means power is reaching your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven but the wiring is incorrect.
Range →
Burner Clicks Constantly
A gas Kenmore range burner igniter that keeps clicking even after the burner has lit, or when no burner is on at all.
Range →
Burner Not Igniting
A gas Kenmore range burner that clicks but will not light, or does not click at all.
Range →
F0/F1/F6/F7
F0, F1, F6, or F7 means a keypanel problem — a stuck key or shorted keypad circuit — on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
F1
F1 means the Electronic Range Control board has failed on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F10
F10 (older units show F1) means a runaway oven temperature on your Frigidaire/Electrolux-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F11
F11 means a shorted keypad on your Frigidaire/Electrolux-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F2
F2 means an extreme oven temperature reading on your Frigidaire/Electrolux-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F2/F20
F2 or F20 means the oven temperature exceeded a preset safety threshold on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
F2E0
F2E0 means a shorted touchpad or keypad on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F2E1
F2E1 means a shorted touchpad or keypad on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F3/F4
F3 or F4 means the oven temperature sensor needs replacement on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
F30/F31
F30 (older F3) or F31 (older F4) means the RTD probe is open or shorted on your Frigidaire/Electrolux-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F350
F350 means an upper cooling fan circuit issue or obstruction on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
F3E0/F3E1
F3E0 or F3E1 means the oven temperature (RTD) sensor is open or shorted on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F5
F5 means a power supply or Electronic Oven Control board failure on your Frigidaire/Electrolux-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F5/F8/FF
F5, F8, or FF means the electronic control board needs replacement on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
F5E0/F5E1
F5E0 or F5E1 (oven) means the door latch motor or door-lock switches have a problem on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F7
F7 means an EOC "watchdog" relay-test failure or an EEPROM error on your Frigidaire/Electrolux-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F8/F9/F90
F8, F9, or F90 means the self-clean door lock motor or switches are improperly positioned on your Frigidaire/Electrolux-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
F9/FC
F9 or FC means a door-lock circuit component has failed on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
F96/F97/F7X
F96, F97, or F7X means an internal component needs replacement on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
F9E0
F9E0 means incorrect electrical voltage or a miswired terminal-block connection on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore range or oven.
Range →
FD
FD means the temperature probe or its receptacle may need replacement on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
Excessive Noise / Rattle
A Kenmore range hood fan that runs unusually loud, rattles, or vibrates.
Range Hood →
Fan Not Working / Not Venting
A Kenmore range hood whose fan will not run, runs weakly, or fails to vent effectively.
Range Hood →
Fan Runs but No Suction/Venting
A Kenmore range hood fan that spins and sounds normal but pulls little or no air.
Range Hood →
Light Not Working
The cooktop light on a Kenmore range hood failing to turn on while the fan still works.
Range Hood →
LOC
LOC is a status indicator meaning Child Lockout is active on your GE-built Kenmore range or wall oven.
Range →
Oven Door Won't Close / Seal
The oven door on a Kenmore range that will not close fully, or does not seal tightly against the cavity.
Range →
Oven Won't Heat
The oven cavity on a Kenmore range that produces no heat while the cooktop burners work normally.
Range →
Oven Won't Reach Set Temperature
The oven on a Kenmore range that heats but never quite reaches, or takes far too long to reach, its set temperature.
Range →
Surface Element Won't Heat (Electric)
An electric Kenmore range cooktop element that will not heat while the oven and other elements work normally.
Range →
Uneven Baking
Food that browns or bakes unevenly across the oven cavity of a Kenmore range.
Range →
CC
CC means the temperature control setting is incorrect on your GE-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
CH/CL
CH or CL means a high-side or low-side refrigerant leak has been detected on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
CI
CI means the icemaker check is needed — it is not operating properly — on your GE-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
DE
DE means Demo/Showroom mode is active on your GE-built Kenmore refrigerator — cooling is disabled while lights and controls stay on.
Refrigerator →
dE
dE means the defrost system has not completed a proper cycle in the last 24 hours on your GE-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Door Not Sealing
A Kenmore refrigerator or freezer door that will not close fully or seal tightly against the cabinet.
Refrigerator →
E Od
E Od means a Wi-Fi modem/communication failure on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator — it does not affect cooling.
Refrigerator →
Er CF
Er CF means the condenser fan motor is defective on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er CO
Er CO means a communication error between the control board and display on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er FF
Er FF means the evaporator/freezer fan has failed, often from frost buildup, on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er FS
Er FS means the freezer sensor has shorted or disconnected on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er gF
Er gF means a flow-meter error or low water pressure to the water/ice dispenser on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er HS
Er HS means the humidity sensor has shorted or disconnected on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er IF
Er IF means the ice-compartment fan has failed on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er IS
Er IS means an ice-maker sensor failure on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er It
Er It means an internal ice-maker system error on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er rS
Er rS means the refrigerator (fresh-food) sensor has shorted or disconnected on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er rt
Er rt means the room (ambient) temperature sensor is open or shorted on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Er SS
Er SS means a pantry (special) sensor failure on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
F dH
F dH means the defrost sensor did not reach the required temperature within the allotted defrost window on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
F dS/r dS
F dS or r dS means the freezer or refrigerator defrost sensor has shorted or disconnected on your LG-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
FF
FF means the frozen-food section temperature is rising too high on your GE-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Fresh Food Warm, Freezer Cold
A Kenmore refrigerator where the freezer stays cold but the fresh-food section runs warm.
Refrigerator →
Frost/Ice Buildup in Freezer
Frost or ice forming inside the freezer section of a Kenmore refrigerator/freezer combo.
Refrigerator →
Interior Light Not Working
The interior light in a Kenmore refrigerator or freezer compartment failing to turn on.
Refrigerator →
Leaking Water
Water pooling under or inside a Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Noisy Compressor or Fan
A Kenmore refrigerator making a loud humming, buzzing, clicking, or rattling noise during operation.
Refrigerator →
Not Cooling
A Kenmore refrigerator that runs but will not hold a safe, cold temperature.
Refrigerator →
PF
PF means power to the refrigerator was interrupted on your GE-built Kenmore refrigerator.
Refrigerator →
Running Constantly
A Kenmore refrigerator compressor that runs nonstop or cycles far more than expected.
Refrigerator →
Too Cold / Freezing Food
A Kenmore refrigerator that freezes produce, dairy, or drinks in the fresh-food section.
Refrigerator →
Warm Inside
A Kenmore refrigerator interior that feels noticeably warmer than the set temperature.
Refrigerator →
Broiler Not Working
The broil element or broil function on a Kenmore oven failing to heat.
Oven →
Interior Light Not Working
The interior oven light failing to turn on when the door opens or the light switch is pressed.
Oven →
Not Heating
A Kenmore oven that will not produce any heat at all, though the display and controls work.
Oven →
Not Heating Evenly
A Kenmore oven that bakes unevenly, with hot or cold spots across the cavity.
Oven →
Not Reaching Set Temperature
A Kenmore oven that heats but never quite gets to, or takes far too long to reach, the set temperature.
Oven →
Self-Clean Door Locked / Won't Unlock
A Kenmore oven door that stays locked after a self-clean cycle finishes, or will not unlock at all.
Oven →
CE
CE means an over-current condition in the motor's electrical circuit on your LG-built Kenmore washer.
Washer →
CL
CL is a typical child-lock status indicator reported on LG-built Kenmore washers — not a problem.
Washer →
D3
D3 means a coupling part is malfunctioning on your LG-built Kenmore washer.
Washer →
dE
dE means the door failed to lock on your LG-built Kenmore washer.
Washer →
dE1
dE1 means your LG-built Kenmore washer's door is open and not locked.
Washer →
dE2
dE2 means your LG-built Kenmore washer's door is closed but not locking.
Washer →
DL
DL means the door latch switch is not functioning properly on your LG-built Kenmore washer.
Washer →
dU
dU is a typical door-lock failure pattern reported on Whirlpool-built Kenmore washers.
Washer →
E6
E6 is a clutch error on your LG-built Kenmore washer, often caused by a coin or foreign object stuck in the mechanism.
Washer →
Excessive Vibration / Walking
A Kenmore washer that shakes heavily or visibly moves ("walks") across the floor during spin.
Washer →
F0E1
F0E1 means your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer detected items still in the tub while running a Clean Washer cycle.
Washer →
F5E1
F5E1 means your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer cannot confirm the door/lid is fully closed and locked.
Washer →
F5E2
F5E2 means the lid lock cannot engage because an obstruction is detected in the lid-lock area on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer.
Washer →
F7E1
F7E1 is a control-level problem on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer that Whirlpool directs owners to clear with a full power reset.
Washer →
F8E1
F8E1 means your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer is not detecting the correct amount of incoming water during fill.
Washer →
F9E1
F9E1 means a long-drain condition on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer — it is taking too long to drain.
Washer →
FE
FE is a typical overfill/water-level problem pattern reported on LG-built Kenmore washers.
Washer →
Foul Odor
A musty, moldy, or sour smell coming from a Kenmore washer or the clothes it washes.
Washer →
IE
IE means water is not being supplied to your LG-built Kenmore washer, or supply pressure is too low.
Washer →
LE
LE is a typical motor/locked-rotor problem pattern reported on LG-built Kenmore washers.
Washer →
Leaking
A Kenmore washer leaking water from the door, drain pump, or supply connections.
Washer →
LF/LO
LF or LO is a typical long-fill pattern reported on some Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer control platforms.
Washer →
Loud Noise
A Kenmore washer making unusual banging, grinding, or vibrating noises during operation.
Washer →
Not Agitating
A Kenmore washer that fills with water but the agitator or drum does not move clothes during wash.
Washer →
Not Draining
A Kenmore washer that leaves standing water in the drum at the end of the cycle.
Washer →
Not Filling
A Kenmore washer that will not fill with water, or fills very slowly.
Washer →
Not Spinning
A Kenmore washer that fills and washes but will not spin at the end of the cycle.
Washer →
OE
OE means your LG-built Kenmore washer is draining slowly or not at all.
Washer →
oL
oL means your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer load is too large for the machine to operate properly.
Washer →
PE
PE is a typical water-level pressure-sensor failure pattern reported on LG-built Kenmore washers.
Washer →
PF
PF is a typical power-failure status indicator reported across Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer and dryer control platforms.
Washer →
Stops Mid-Cycle
A Kenmore washer that begins a cycle normally but halts partway through, often with a code or flashing light.
Washer →
Sud
Sud (also shown as Sd or 5d) means your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer detected excessive suds and is running extra rinses.
Washer →
SUD
SUD means your LG-built Kenmore washer detected too many suds and is running an extended suds-reducing cycle.
Washer →
tCL
tCL is not a problem — it means it is time to run the Tub Clean cycle on your LG-built Kenmore washer.
Washer →
tE
tE is a typical thermistor (temperature sensor) problem pattern reported on LG-built Kenmore washers.
Washer →
UE
UE means an unbalanced load was detected on your LG-built Kenmore washer.
Washer →
uL
uL means an off-balance load was detected on your Whirlpool-built Kenmore washer that the control could not auto-correct.
Washer →
Won't Start
A Kenmore washer that shows power but will not begin a cycle when Start is pressed.
Washer →
Kenmore dryer error codes (PF, F1, AF, d90)

How a Kenmore dryer reports a fault

Most Kenmore dryers on record carry the 110-series prefix and are Whirlpool-built. A dryer paired with an LG-built 796-series washer uses a different code set, including d90/d95 for vent blockage.

Whirlpool-built (110-series)

PF means power was interrupted mid-cycle; hold Start to resume. F1/F01 is an internal short in the main control relay or a control-board fault. F22/F23 flags the outlet thermistor open or shorted, and F24 flags the inlet thermistor. F28/F29 is a moisture-sensor fault. L2 means the power-supply voltage is too low. AF (“Check Vent”) means restricted airflow — a clogged lint screen or a crushed, kinked vent.

LG-built dryers

d90/d95 means the vent or duct is blocked at 90 or 95 percent capacity — clean the ductwork immediately. tE is a thermistor fault, and dE/AE means the door did not fully close.

What to check, and when to call

Clean the full vent path and lint screen first for AF or d90/d95 — restricted airflow drives most of these codes. Confirm the door latches fully for dE/AE. A recurring thermistor (F22-F24, F28, F29, tE) or control (F1, F01) code needs an experienced, independent technician with the correct genuine OEM part matched to your dryer’s actual builder; L2 points at the household supply rather than the dryer. See the dryer error codes page or the error codes library, then book dryer repair.

C — Need help?

Can't resolve your
error code?

Book an experienced Kenmore technician. On-site diagnostics, genuine parts, 30-day labor warranty.